ASK A JEWELLER --- engagement ring + wedding band = trouble?

This is the first instalment of  Ask a Jeweller - the newest feature on our blog in which our readers submit gemstone or jewellery related questions that are answered by our Master Goldsmith, Dino Giannetti.

I have an 18k white gold engagement ring and will be purchasing a 14k white gold wedding band. Our local jeweller, who we are purchasing the bands from, has strongly recommended that we solder the wedding band and engagement ring together as the 14k gold band will end up wrecking the softer 18k gold ring. I am concerned that this might change the look and feel of the rings, which I love. What do you recommend?

- Kristan M.

There are a couple of circumstances that might arise with regards to a wedding suite in which we might recommend soldering the two rings together, but the karat of gold is never one of them. Regardless of what metal is used, there will always be wear along the points of contact on both rings whether they are made of 18k, 14k, platinum, iron, or steel. Unless your engagement ring already has some serious wear - if for example it is a well worn heirloom that has already experienced decades of daily wear and tear or the engagement ring has a very thin band already - there is a slim chance that you will wear out either the engagement ring or band in your lifetime. However, if either of the rings have an engraved or filigreed detail this will eventually be worn away if it they are constantly rubbing together. Another concern would be if either of the rings have diamonds set along the sides of the band, not only will the diamonds damage the ring but the ring will also damage the diamonds.

There are two circumstances that would warrant soldering the two together - if the engagement ring has an unusual shape and a band has been made to fit, yet keeps slipping out of its intended place or if the wedding band is resting against the setting holding the diamond or gemstone - especially a claw setting.

On the first example, we have seen various custom or fitted wedding suites in which the engagement ring fits into a jacket-style wedding band or a notch or curve has been added to the wedding band so that it they both sit snuggly together. These types of settings require a high degree of precision which is not always met - if these types of settings are not perfectly alligned the two may start to slip out of place - creating an undesirable look and uncomfortable feel to the rings. In this case, soldering them together may be the best solution.

This is an example of a fitted engagement ring and wedding band - the wedding band is built to fit within the shape of the engagement ring. If built well, this type of setting will stay in place while being worn. If the wedding band is not properly constructed, it may move out of place and be quite uncomfortable to wear. If an adjustment doesn't fix the problem, soldering them together might be the best solution.

Secondly, how well a standard wedding band will fit against an engagement ring is usually only a consideration after the engagement ring has been purchased. Most engagement rings are designed in a way that a standard band will not sit flush to the band and in some instances will actually rest against the settings holding the diamond (or diamonds) in place. This is a concern as the wedding band will eventually saw through the setting and will put the diamond at risk for coming loose. Soldering the band to the engagement ring would be a good solution in both of these scenarios.

This is an example of an engagement ring and wedding band that do not fit flush against each other. As long as the wedding band is not rubbing against the settings holding the small diamonds (i.e. the small claws holding the stones in place) , there is no reason to solder the two bands in place.

On a final note, rest assured that if the rings are soldered together properly it is not impossible to eventually have them separated. In fact, if you do decide to have them soldered together the rings should always be separated if there is major maintenance or repair to be done. If for example the rings must be resized (and most will at some point), they should be separated, resized individually, and re-soldered together. This is not a difficult task for a trained goldsmith, but just a heads up that along with extra time and labour there are extra costs associated.

Thank you for your question Kirsten, and I hope we have given you enough information to help you with your decision.

Have a question? Email them to us at service(at)18karat.ca with the subject line Ask a Jeweller. We will answer your questions here, every Thursday.

Ammolite Collection at 18Karat

Last year we wrote about a sweet gemstone haul we purchased from a local gemstone dealer - you can read about it here.

Some of my favorite pieces to come out of that purchase was an assortment of bright and sparkling ammolites - fossilized shells found almost exclusively in Canada. Many of those stones have been set (although we are setting some aside for some exciting future custom pieces, *hint *hint) and are now available for purchase.

An oval-shaped ammolite cabochon is set in a minimalist 14k white gold setting. Due to the iridescent properties of this amazing gemstone, it is impossible to capture how dynamic this jewellery really is!

Featuring golden-orange-red sparkling tones, this oval cabochon is also set in a 14k white gold setting.

This necklace is inarguably a one-of-a-kind super dazzler - featuring an ammolite with a spectrum of colour play that totals almost 50.00 cts and is set in a handmade sterling silver setting.

For more information on this beautiful ammolite collection, visit www.18karat.ca.

It's that time of year - LOVE LETTERS

For the third year, 18Karat is again running our LOVE LETTERS CONTEST!

Send us your love letters and love poems telling us why your sweetheart deserves a diamond and.... they might just get one!

We are giving away a loose Canadian Diamond valued at over $400 to the best entry - contest ends February 13th!

To submit your letter - click here.

Check out some of our best past entries by clicking here.

Golden Glow - a new collection by Kathryn Rebecca

We are thrilled to present the latest collection by local artist Kathryn Rebecca - The Golden Glow Collection.

We are also pleased to announce that throughout the month of February, the entire Golden Glow Collection is 25% off - only at 18Karat!

Inspired by the song 'Build Me Up Buttercup' this collection is a sweet reminder that we all need someone to, build us up.

The collection includes:

Sterling Silver Golden Glow Studs (available in both small and large sizes)
Originally : $60 - $100
Now On Sale : $45 - $75
Sterling Silver and Gold-Plated Golden Glow Studs (available in both small and large sizes)
Originally : $70 - $110
Now On Sale : $52.50 - $82.50

Sterling Silver and Gold-Plated Golden Glow Necklace with Yellow Sapphire and Pearl Accents
Originally : $140

Now On Sale : $105

Sterling Silver and Gold-Filled Golden Glow Necklace with Citrine and Pearl Accents
Originally : $160

Now On Sale : $120

Sterling Silver and Gold-Plated Golden Glow Necklace with Yellow Sapphire and Pearl Accents
Originally : $220

Now On Sale : $165

This Valentine's Day, why not give locally made and handcrafted jewellery!?

Love Letters - A Valentine's Day Giveaway

Every year we race to and then through the holiday season, only to be confronted with yet another cause célèbre - Valentine's Day, the day we all love to hate.

Yes it is contrived, superficial, and corporately sponsored. Yes it is filled with garish colours and textures; frills and bows and velvets. Valentine's day, some could argue, is a box of chocolates filled with questionable and indistinguishable cream fillings.

But it is also the day that forces us to pause and to think about those people most treasured in our lives, those people who keep us happy and for the most part sane. It is a day above all others to remember those we sometimes take for granted.
And while we may all cringe at the mention of the notorious V-day, it is for that reason that we all dive into Valentine's Day head first.

So when was the last time you wrote a love letter to the apple of your eye? A little note, poem, or sentence that says all those things we are often to busy to mention as often as we should. If making your love swoon isn't enough of an incentive, perhaps we can sweeten the pink and red pot.

From today until midnight February 11th, send us your love letters telling us why your loved one deserves a diamond, and they just might get one. The winning entry will be announced February 13th, 2012.

Submit letters to www.18karat.ca/loveletters.html

Weekend Workshops - NOW at 18Karat

Over the last couple of years I think we have all come to notice the rise in interest in crafting of all kinds - be it knitting, pottery and winemaking. People want to use their hands to create the things they love.

Whether this is a way for us to push against our technology obsessed culture or a desire to reach back to a time when all things where crafted by hand by local artisans, more and more people want to take the time to learn how to do things themselves.

Well jewellery lovers, we have just the thing for you - weekend jewellery workshops.

Over the course of a single Saturday you will learn how to cut, saw, solder, print, and polish your very own sterling silver pendant, earring, band, or all three!

Classes are small, with a maximum of 5 people, and are run by our Master Goldsmith Dino Giannetti - a goldsmith who at one time (many moons ago) apprenticed in some of the most renowned Italian workshops. He has since been creating fine jewellery in our downtown shop for over 40 years.

What better way to learn!?

Classes begin January 21st, from 11 - 4pm.

Cost: $150 + HST and include all tools and materials necessary.

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From now until February 6th 18Karat is GIVING AWAY 2 places in an upcoming workshop.

Visit our Facebook page to enter!

Happy Holidays from 18Karat

Just in time for the Holidays -

18Karat is excited to introduce a Canadian designer new to our shop - Keith Jack!

All of his items are handmade from sterling silver, 18k yellow gold, and 24k gold gilding - every item possess a lovely attention to detail both back and front.

Here are a few of our favorite pieces:

From the Tree of Life Collection - a beautiful sterling silver and 18k yellow gold accented framed tree pendant with an 18 inch sterling silver chain.

From the Tree of Life Collection - sterling silver and 18k yellow gold accented tree-shaped drop earrings.

From the Window to the Soul Collection - a sterling silver and 24k gilded pierced pendant on an 18 inch sterling silver chain.

From the Window to the Soul Collection - sterling silver and 24k gilded pierced drop earrings with french-back closures.

From the Tree of Life Collection - a striking sterling silver and 18k yellow gold accented framed tree pendant with an 18 inch sterling silver chain.

Handmade jewellery from a Canadian artist couldn't make for a more perfect gift this Holiday Season - from now until December 23rd all Keith Jack jewellery is 25% off!